This means a 3:00AM wake-up call and a quick breakfast. South Summit on the right. Base camp (Campamento Base) is located at 17,500 feet. www.alanarnette.com is provided for informational purposes only and not to be used for advice except through Summit Coach services. Most climbers don't notice all this since they are focused on getting into their tents and having a brew and some food. This is a picture of the popular South Col Route up Mt. . This website has reports on his summits of K2, Everest, the 7 Summits plus over 35 major expediitons plus all the Colorado 14ers all with essays, pictures, videos. The terrain starts out fairly steep from C3. If weather does not cooperate within these short few days, climbers are forced to descend, many all the way back down to Base Camp. . Everest South Col Route Maps. Sitting between Everest and Lhotse at 26,300 feet, it serves as the base for the summit attempt. It can be cold if the wind is blowing so most people throw on a down parka during the break. The last section to the South Summit was quite steep. The icefall is considered one of the most dangerous stages of the South Col route to Everest's summit. Most bodies are still on the mountain but China has removed many bodies from sight on their side. Narrative Their presence there was symbolic of our success in overcoming the most crucial problem of the whole climb; they had reached an objective which we had been striving to attain for twelve anxious days.[2]. It had a small bench carved out of the snow for clibmers to pose onfor pictures. Mt Everest South Col Route Maps. There are over 18 named routes on Everest and a couple that are still unclimbed. This can be exhausting. At 6:30 a.m. on May 28, 1953, Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay set out from a camp high above the South Col on the Southwest Face of Mount Everest and began the ascent for which both would become famous. It was on one of these bridges that I fell into a deep crevasse in 2002. The South Col Route starts from the base camp located on the south side of Mt. The climb through the Triangular Face to the Balcony is long and cold in the dark. https://www.alltrails.com/trail/nepal/province-1/mount-everest-via-south-col A lot depends on snow conditions. 122 died not using Os. Everest Nepal South Col Route Programme Description: Introduction: Mount Everest at 8,848 metres / 29,035 feet is perhaps the most coveted mountain in the world.The south (Nepalese) side is the route first climbed by Tenzing and Hillary in 1953, and the dates we have chosen feature the best weather of … There is a tendency to relax their guard but now is not the time. This page details the South Col route from Nepal. There are usually two or three levels of camps because flat areas are at a premium and Sherpas need a somewhat flat area to carve out tent platforms. The true summit is not visible from this angle. First it is hot. Climbers leave the Balcony on a somewhat gentle grade but it quickly increases to 30 degrees but still on a snow packed boot path in high traffic years. I have marked the camps and routes we used in all my climbs. K2 ( 8611m, 28,250ft) in the Karakoram Region of Pakistan - the highest mountain in Pakistan and the second highest mountain in the world. This website has reports on his summits of K2, Everest, the 7 Summits plus over 35 major expediitons plus all the Colorado 14ers all with essays, pictures, videos. People stopping to adjust oxygen or gear. There have been 772 summits by women members. This picture was taken from Kala Patar using a 10X optical zoom lens, All rights reserved ©1999-2021 www.alanarnette.com, April 2-10 - Trek to Base Camp (17,500'/5334m), Balcony (with 20 minute break) - South Summit: 2:30 hours, South Summit (with 20 minute break)- top of Hillary Step: 1:00 hour. Since 1950 (when Tibet was closed), most Everest expeditions have left from Nepal and gone via the southeast ridge and the South Col (instead of via the North Col). More on my summit based on my May 21 2011 summit. This is where climbers begin their true trip up the mountain. This is only for about 100 - 300 feet depending on the route that year but it takes concentration. Everest The South Col Route (nepalese way). Everest at 5:00AM on May 21, 2011 with Kami Sherpa of International Mountain Guides (IMG). It is about 1.07 miles from the South Col to the summit and usually takes from 6 to 9 hours or more. Climbing Mt. There are huge seracs that teeter above climbers threatening to fall at any moment. The fixed line becomes a bit cumbersome and requires careful manipulation of their carabineer and jumar in heavy gloves at each anchor. Here we provide you a detailed tourist route map to Everest Base Camp from both sides, namely the north side in Tibet and the South side in Nepal. If the weather is good, there will be no wind and the temps around zero, very comfortable in down suits. The North Col (Chinese: 北坳; pinyin: Běi Ào; Tibetan: Chang La) refers to the sharp-edged pass carved by glaciers in the ridge connecting Mount Everest and Changtse in Tibet.It forms the head of the East Rongbuk Glacier. The Himalayan Database reports that through December 2019 there have been 10,155 summits (5,140 members and 5,015 hired) on Everest by all routes by 5,780 different people. Climbers don't spend long here since the weather is always temporary and the altitude destructive. Mt. They took the South Col route which is described on this page. It looms 29,035′ (8,848 meters) above sea level and sits directly on the border of Tibet and Nepal. The angle can be very steep especially just above the base or the bergschrund and again near the top most camps. The summit is the highest point in this picture. Once climbers top the Icefall there is a large flat expanse of snow on the western end of the Western Cwm. I found it challenging but not nearly as hard as advertised! The South Col is a sharp-edged col between Mount Everest and Lhotse, the highest and fourth-highest mountains in the world, respectively.The South Col is typically swept by high winds, leaving it free of significant snow accumulation. Everest South vs North If you are looking to climb Everest there are a whole raft of factors to take in to account – the cost, the style of trip, the company (and their track record), the client / Sherpa ratio for summit day, availability of oxygen high on the hill, availability of spare oxygen and masks . Some climbers report various degrees of vertigo and being uneasy with soft edges on the boot tracks. I stayed clipped in and scooted around it given the thousand foot drop-off to the left and the vertical rock wall to the right. So it is not far and not that high but ... it is hot, very hot if they travel in mid day. Headlamps lighting up the way. 304 people (185 westerners and 119 Sherpas) have died on Everest from 1924 to August 2020, about 3.5%. So, in the middle of the Himalayas, climbers have a traffic jam! Climbers still cannot actually see Everest until they go another quarter mile up the Western Cwm, they do have a spectacular view of Pumori and other 7000m hills behind them. Also this section can create long bottlenecks both going up and descending. This is actually on the Geneva Spur. Good leather gloves, sunglasses, headlamp and warm cap top things off. When climbers attempt to climb Everest from the southeast ridge in Nepal, their final camp (usually Camp IV) is situated on the South Col. The vast majority of climbers use two routes: South Col or the Northeast Ridge Standard aka North Col route. It is considered slightly more dangerous than the North Ridge Route due primarily to the instability of the Khumbu Icefall. • Everest 2005 • Everest 2004 Route Maps • South Col • North Ridge Popular Everest Posts • The cost to Climb Everest • Everest by the Numbers • Comparing the Routes • Bodies on Everest • What is Wrong with Everest? The next section is the Upper Icefall but it fools climbers because think they see the top of the Icefall before realizing there is more to go. 3-6 hours, 0.8 miles one way. It is a bit of a shock in that it is relatively high, about 50' of jutting rock. 3-6 hours, 1.62 miles one way. Once on the South Col, climbers have entered the death zone; altitude sickness is a significant threat at this elevation and can easily prove fatal. Then there are the crevasses. Camp 2 seems like a mirage throughout the walk, never getting closer. Temperatures can easily reach 100 degrees Fahrenheit. Respect for these special people grow not because of their strength but because of their completeness. 8,041 out of the total 8,306 summits followed the same basic route that was pioneered in 1953 by John Hunt’s British expedition to the summit using the Southeast Ridge-South Col and Shi Zhang 1960’s summit via the Northeast Ridge-North Col. While not all of it is visible, climbers can see Nuptse on their right, Lhotse ahead and Everest on their left. 35 climbers have traversed from one side to the other. Even the wall after the Balcony is dangerous if unroped. Climbers struggle with their 20lb load and Sherpas scoot by them with their 60 to 100 pound loads. Instinctively climbers lower their shoulders and raise their arms over their head. At some points climbers simply stood in place waiting for the person ahead of climbers to move, not wanting -or able -to pass them. The first time climbers are probably already awake with anticipation or just because they are still not used to sleeping at 17.500'. Western Cwm route from Camp 1 (top triangle) to Camp 2 (bottom triangle) as seen from Camp 3 on the Lhotse Face. In 2014 an ice serac released off the West Shoulder of Everest onto the Khumbu Icefall killing 16 Sherpas - the worst single incident tragedy in the history of Everest on either side. You can see it in the picture above the top climber with the rope ascending above it. There have been several other famous routes on Everest South Col, including the Bonington Route which was first climbed by Chris Bonington in 1975. It takes about 2-3 hours to walk from C1 to C2 and it can be extremely hot. The route. The slabs vary in difficulty from annoying to very steep and hard. The lines took some time to spread out. As we got ready to leave for the summit, they checked our crampons for tightness, that our harnesses were doubled-backed and that our oxygen was set properly with the regulators. Jan 13, 2018 - Explore Annie Johnston's board "Everest Route Map" on Pinterest. Everest from the South Col Save The route follows the shallow gully up and then right to the level spot on the Ridge (The Balcony). It is also difficult to sleep, and most climbers' digestive systems have significantly slowed or completely stopped. I have already described climbing the IceFall so here is a description of the last steps to Camp 1. On the right were large snow cornices with interesting shapes created by the prevailing winds. Usually there is at least a partial moon in mid to late May so climbers can see the surrounding ground plus the nearby mountains including Makalu and Lhotse. Normally it is 8 to 12 hours depending how long the climb from Camp 3 took. My mom, Ida, and two of my aunts, died from Alzheimer's. It was a great moment for them both, and it was shared by all of us who watched it. There are normally five to 8 ladders in this area along with a fixed rope. The Tibet side has seen 3,603 summits with 110 deaths through December 2019 or 3%, a rate of 1.08. At the top of the Hillary Step a large boulder aka chockstone sitting on a ledge, blocked the route. 3-6 hours, 1.64 miles one way. It was obviously dark at 9:20 PM when we set out. This is where almost every climber swaps oxygen bottles for a fresh one and also time for a food and water break. Western Cwm route from Camp 1 (top triangle) to Camp 2 (bottom triangle) as seen from Camp 3 on the Lhotse Face. [4], In May 2019, the highest weather station in the world was installed at Everest, with one location at the South Col, and another on a place higher up on the peak known as "The Balcony" as well as some other stations and locations. click to enlarge map The South Col Route was taken by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay and is still the route used most frequently. The first time crossing a long ladder can be interesting but it gets simple as time goes on. When not climbing, I cover the Everest season from my home in Colorado as I did for the 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2009, 2010, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016 , 2017, 2018 and now the 2019 season. The summit is the highest point in this picture. Next climbers reach a flat section known as the football field. South Summit on the right. Everest is on the North (left), Lhotse is directly ahead and Nuptse is on the right or South. It takes about 2-3 hours to walk from C1 to C2 and it can be extremely hot. If your the camp is at the top of the gully, it can be a very long final half hour. Climbers are told to always attach themselves to the rope and be extra careful in this area. First as an acclimatization climb and then on the way to the summit. Climbers have to kick their crampon points into the ice stealing precious strength with each step. Depending on where their camp is located at Everest Base Camp, this can take 10 to 30 minutes to reach the last flat section, Crampon Point, where they attach their crampons to their boots. They were gazing down on the scene of the Swiss drama, and they were also looking upwards to the final pyramid of Everest itself. Summit Ridge. Of the 8000 meter peaks, Everest has the highest absolute number of deaths at 304 but ranks near the bottom with a death rate of 1.17. Also see the South Col route map. This picture was taken from Kala Patar using a 10X optical zoom lens The picture on the right was taken by teammate Simon Arnsby as he summited Lhotse the same morning I summited Everest, May 21, 2011. The South Col ... Map | Everest Home. Everest is the highest peak in back, the one in front is Everest's West Shoulder. Standard Routes. The walk to C1 has a gradual gain but climbers will still be breathing hard. I took a little over 3 hours to return to the South Col, finding it fast with few delays other than at the slabs below the South Summit. I had expected a long snow slope with the summit visible from just above the Hillary Step but there were more small hills, really bumps that blocked the view and continued to demand a physical effort on top of the altitude requirements. Again, not difficult but somewhat challenging given the circumstances. The climbing and Yellow Band is not technically hard but climbers are approaching 8000m. But it is actually easier than it looks. It should be sunrise but climbers are on the West side of the Icefall and the sun does not hit this are until 9:00 at the earliest. It is critical to have goggles and mittens in these conditions. Most climbers are on supplemental oxygen and leave their tents after sunrise. So most leave Camp 1 at 6:00 AM or earlier. Recent years have been tragic with 17 Sherpas killed in the Khumbu Icefall by a serac release on April 8, 2014 and 19 people killed on April 25, 2015 at Everest Base Camp from an avalanche triggered off Pumori's ridge by a magnitude 7.8 earthquake almost 200 miles away in Nepal. Climbing the Lhotse Face is a big challenge after the Khumbu Ice Fall on the way to the summit. It became extremely cold and stayed that way until I returned to the South Summit on the descent. There are a few sections of 20' to 30' high "cliff like" features of 60 degrees, very steep, where climbers are placing their crampon front points on jutting rock and pulling yourself up with their jumar. The fixed ropes are a huge asset here. This is a two step process so that the climber is always attached to the fixed line by at least one device. However, in 2019 9 people died on the Nepal side, most were avoidable and a result of inexperience of both client and guide. The North Ridge Route is the second-most popular route. Then start 7-day trekking to the base camp, which allows for proper altitude acclimatisation and … Deserving of every harsh word ever written or said. The Cwm is straightforward but has several dangers. There have been 702 summits by women. Narrative ... on Everest. Using a Buff is mandatory since it warms their breath and helps manage the Khumbu cough. Route from Camp 2 (lower left triangle) to Camp 3 (upper triangle) up the Lhotse Face, across the yellow band and up the Geneva Spur to the South Col. Climbers must be clipped into the fixed line at all times to avoid falling resulting in injury or death. Some are crossed on ladders but others remain hidden by thin snow bridges. The Swiss returned in 1956 to make the second summit of Everest. British Man And Three Other Climbers On Everest Amid Concerns. From C3 to South Col (7900m) on the south side feels nervy in some places, the Lhotse Face is huge and relatively smooth and at the angle such that you are completely reliant on the fixed ropes in some places. Paul s mt everest expedition mt everest south col route maps nimsdai everest mt everest dispatch may 16 2016 procedure for climbing mount everest. The last half hour is the most mentally challenging. The audio at 56 seconds in the video is my dispatch from the summit to this website dedicating the summit to all mom's with Alzheimer's. Climbers must be clipped into the fixed line at all times - even while at Camp 3. But this section is short, maybe 100' and on a wide snow slope. [6], Looking at Everest upper portions from the South Col, "French Everest Mystery Chopper's Utopia summit", "Inside the Everest expedition that built the world's highest weather station", 1950–1952 British–Swiss–US reconnaissance, List of people who died climbing Mount Everest, https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=South_Col&oldid=979832922, Pages with non-numeric formatnum arguments, Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike License, This page was last edited on 23 September 2020, at 01:49. The South Summit is the first time climbers can clearly see the final route to the true summit and probably the first time climbers think they will actually summit. There is still twice as much to climb at the top of this photo. Cho Oyu is the safest with 3,845 summits and 52 deaths or a death rate of 0.55. It looks easy but they are tired. The climb from the South Col is some of the steepest, sustained climbing on a South Col route climb until you reach the slabs discussed next. In my four times climbing Everest, it was different each time and during the climbs themselves. 2-3 hours, 1.74 miles one way It can be extremely cold before the sun moves over Lhotse or if the winds are the least bit strong, it can be miserable. Also each Sherpa and many climbers had a radio each. But the deaths drastically declined from 2000 to 2019 with 8,988 summits and 134 deaths or 1.5%. 29,035 feet 8,850 m. I summited Everest on May 21, 2011 and have climbed it three other times (all from Nepal) - 2002, 2003 and 2008 each time reaching just below the Balcony at about 27,500' (8400 meters) before health, weather or my own judgment caused me to turn back. 216 climbers summited without supplemental oxygen, about 2.1%. Next is the climb to C2 in the Western Cwm. Mount Everest: The Routes. The picture below was taken by Brad Jackson in 2009. By steep, I mean 40 to 50 degrees. In 2011, there were three "Camp 3's" ranging from 23,500 to 24,000'. Depending on the weather, the Face is usually rock hard blue ice. Camp 1 is still another half to full hour from here. See more ideas about Everest, Route map, Mount everest. The top causes of death are from avalanche (77), fall (71), altitude sickness (36) and exposure (26). Click to enlarge it and you can easily see climbers along the slabs. It is the first step in climbing Everest. Let's take a look at the climb above C3 and onto the South Col. 48 died not using Os. This is also where support staff often remain to monitor the expeditions and provide medical assistance when necessary.